Arrival . Flight
We took a midnight flight by Scoot Airlines and arrived at Taoyuan Airport early in the morning at 5am+ as scheduled. Despite it being a budget airline, the seats were rather spacious and we were comfortable throughout, though it got pretty cold halfway through the journey. I had especially booked our seats but soon realised that I had chosen a row where there was no window! Fortunately it was mostly pitch dark outside during our flight so we did not really miss out much.
We then tried to catch as much sleep as possible since it was a 4-hour flight. Cat and Dar were more successful than me in that. I was too excited about the upcoming trip and hardly caught any sleep.
Transfer . Bus to Taoyuan HSR
Prior to our trip, we knew we would want to get the local pre-paid SIM card from any MyFone Service Center which is under the 台灣大哥大 service provider. Upon arrival at Taiwan’s Taoyuan International Airport before 6am, despite knowing there is such a center at the airport, we did not want to waste time waiting there since it will only open at 7am. As a result, we decided to get the SIM card later and headed straight to the bus terminal where we would catch a shuttle service to Taoyuan HSR Station. We turned right upon leaving the Arrival Hall to reach the bus terminal.
There were several tickets booths from various bus companies there. We headed to the UBus Booth and bought 2 Adult tickets at NT$30 each (more info here). Since Dar was 4 years old and less than 110cm in height, he could travel free but had to sit on one of our laps (this is a common criteria for free rides for most of the transport in Taiwan). We then left through the nearest exit and turned left to get to Berth 1 to wait for the bus to arrive.
There was already a queue formed up so we just simply joined in. We managed to get onto the second bus that arrived at around 10-minute intervals and placed our luggage in the middle of the bus, where an open area was especially reserved for such use. We then found some empty seats near the back of the bus and it soon started moving off, stopping briefly at Terminal 1 before reaching the Taoyuan HSR Station in 15 minutes time.
Transfer . Taoyuan HSR to Chiayi HSR
After we got off the bus, we proceeded to the HSR (High Speed Rail) ticket counter near the entrance of the station to purchase our tickets. There was a detailed list of the subsequent trains indicated on the screens so we just needed to get tickets for the next train that would bring us to Chiayi HSR Station, which cost NT$920 each. We did not buy a ticket for Dar (same rule for free boarding as above) in order to save some money. Though the temperature read that it was 23 degrees celsius, we actually felt it was hot and did not put on our jackets. This made us disappointed because we were here to escape the hot weather back in Singapore.
Initially, we had thought that we would buy food and snacks on board the train, but after checking with the staff, that service is only provided for train rides during peak hours, such as lunch and dinner hours. We quickly proceeded to the 7-Eleven convenience store located in the station to get ourselves some bento (rice) to eat on the train. The staff did the heating up using their microwave machines for us after we had paid for the food.
We then rushed towards the platform as we knew that the trains in Taiwan depart punctually most of the times. The lift ride up to the platform, however, took quite a while (their lift doors close very slowly, probably for safety reasons) but fortunately, we managed to board the train in time.
There were also a luggage area (able to fit in about three or four luggage bags) at the end of each carriage and we left our luggage there before we proceeded to our seats. Above our seats, there were metal railings on both sides of the carriage for putting smaller luggage. The seats were also spacious enough to place small bags below them.
Foldable tables were available at the back of each seat and we had our bento breakfast on them. However, we started to regret not getting a ticket for Dar too as it was difficult for us to eat our breakfast with him sitting on one of our laps. Also, there was the inconvenience of passengers at the window seat (we were occupying the outer two seats out of the three seats on one side) moving in and out the aisle as they boarded/alighted from train as it reached the various stations along the way. We reminded ourselves to get a ticket for Dar next time we take the HSR.
The train ride itself was smooth as it moved rapidly yet steadily, and Dar enjoyed looking out of the window constantly to enjoy the scenery. In about 40 minutes’ time, we arrived at our destination and made sure we took photos of the High Speed Rail that Dar loved so much. “Bullet Train!!!” He had been very fascinated with it even before coming to Taiwan, after we told him about them and watched some videos of them on YouTube.
Arrival . Chiayi County
We then met up with our pre-arranged cab driver for the day (booked via email). Our original driver was supposed to be Mr Zheng (鄭先生), who was recommended by Doris Home (朵麗絲的家) but he had something on at the last-minute and arranged for his friend, Mr Lin (林先生) to be our driver for our first day’s itinerary instead.
As we passed through the Chiayi County on our way to Alishan Area, we felt it was rural and countryside with large patches of grasslands or plantations. The buildings were also quite old.
At the Foot of Alishan: Lovers Bridge Area 天長地久橋
1) Lovers Bridge (Lower Bridge) 地久橋
This was not part of our original itinerary as we knew time was limited for our first day’s itinerary (especially when daylight is short in the later part of the year in Taiwan). However, when we reached the foot of Alishan, we realised that the road uphill was blocked as a time-limited access was in place to restrict the number of vehicles in Alishan at any one time. This was due to typhoons earlier causing landslides covering the roads and thus need clearance of the mud. It seemed to be a pretty common occurrence and can make travelling up the area quite dangerous during certain seasons (especially during August and September). They would close the entrance and restrict people from going uphill if the damage was bad and thus, travelers need to check the weather conditions and read the news before they decide to go to the Alishan area.
From what we understand from our driver, vehicles going in or out of Alishan would only be permitted within the first 20 minutes of each hour (from 8am in the morning till dusk). During the remaining 40 minutes, all traffic access would be stopped.
From the bridge, we could see a huge empty piece of land on the slope of Alishan, a result of landslide during the recent typhoon.
As a result, we had around 20 minutes more to spare at the foot of Alishan. Mr Lin suggested us to tour around the Lovers Bridge and the Long Yin Temple while we waited for the access to be granted. We did not mind the idea since it would be a waste of time if were to just wait in the cab anyway. Stepping out, we finally felt some cool breeze but it was still not cold enough to put on a jacket. Nevertheless, our spirits were uplifted by the sight of the mountainous regions.
The Lovers Bridge actually consists of two bridges, named 天長橋 (Tian Chang Qiao) and 地久橋 (Di Jiu Qiao). We crossed the lower bridge (地久橋 Di Jiu Qiao) and looked down at the dry stream below, since it was not the wet season then.
Dar also walked on a suspension bridge for the first time and was not afraid. He kept calling it the ‘shake shake bridge’, named after the bridge in Thomas & Friends as it was a bit shaky while we walked. We did not try going to the higher bridge (天長橋Tian Chang Qiao) since a lot of stairs climbing would be needed and we doubt we had the time to do so.
2) Long Yin Temple 龍隱寺
Situated between the two bridges was Long Yin Temple and we took the opportunity to take a look at its interior structure. We were impressed with the detailed architecture and carvings that we observed on its walls and ceiling.
There was a small walkway and garden beside the temple, which brought us to a lookout point that provided us a nice view of the stream and valley. There were many nice structures for photo opportunities and Dar even rang the bell with me over the wishing well.
Along the Way : Alishan Tea Garden 茶香花園民宿
We made a brief stopover at Alishan Tea Garden, our homestay for the night after 1.5 hrs of winding up the road. We thought we could deposit our luggages and take a look around the homestay or our rooms first as it would be very late at night later when we come back. It looked as pretty as in the pictures. Cat felt the compound looked smaller than she thought. Read more about this accommodation in Taiwan: Fenchihu & Night and Taiwan: Alishan Tea Garden Morning
Alishan National Forest Recreation Area 阿里山森林遊樂區
1. Tourist Visitor Centre
We arrived at the visitor centre via our hired driver and found a vacant parking lot easily, after paying for our entry at the main entrance. The place was not as crowded as what we had expected to be, since this was supposed to be a tourist hotspot. Maybe it was because of the roadblock earlier.
The temperature was 15 degrees celsius according to the display panel we saw there and we felt cold enough to put on an extra overcoat over the ones we were already wearing so we were all wearing three layers (t-shirt, one cotton/sweater jacket, one lined windbreaker jacket). As the next train into the forest area will only arrive at 1pm due to an one-hour lunch break (see train schedule here), we decided to fill up our stomachs first which would also help build up our resistance against the blowing cold air.
Lunch At Yu Shan Yuan Restaurant 玉山園餐廳
We ordered two plates of fried rice and a large bowl of soup. The fried rice was delicious but the soup was tasteless.
2. Alishan Forest Railway (Alishan Station 阿里山站 to Zhao Ping Station 沼平站)
We bought our two-way trip tickets for Cat and myself, with Dar riding for free. Earlier at Tea Garden Home stay, where we had deposited our luggage before coming over, the owner Mr Xu had advised us to start our forest trail from Zhao Ping Station 沼平站. In this way, we would be traveling downhill as we pass through the forest and end our trail at Shen Mu Station 神木站, where we would be taking our return train ride from. Anyway, despite us alighting/boarding at different stations, the two-way tickets would still be valid since it’s independent of the stations.
The train arrived ten minutes before 1pm, with a small crowd from a tour group already waiting eagerly before us. We had no difficulty finding seats (free seating) as there were quite a few carriages on the train.
Right on the dot at 1pm, the announcement was made that the train was moving off, and off we went towards Zhao Ping Station. There was much scenery to see on board the train and we reached our destination in just about ten minutes’ time. Well, Dar still had quite a lot of fun on his maiden ride so we believed he had enjoyed the ride nevertheless.
3. Sisters Pond 姐妹譚
Some construction work was ongoing at Zhao Ping Station, so we quickly snapped some photos with the train before heading towards our forest trail. We passed by a railway crossing and believing that the Alishan Railway does not travel along that part of the track, we posed ourselves and took some funny photos on the railway track. After we walked away from the track, we saw a truck (something like those we see in coal mines) carrying some people zooming pass us! Oops! :p
After walking past the Alishan Ko Hotel 阿里山閣 along the way (used the toilets here since there were only makeshift toilets at the station due to construction works), we entered the forest trail and surrounded ourselves with the cypress trees.
We were the only visitors in the vicinity at that time (the rest of the people on the train earlier had gone into the hotel) and upon stepping into the area, we discovered that the surroundings filled with tall skinny trees were of utter silence — not even any sound coming from the wind, insects or birds, except from our footsteps and voices! It was of such amazing serenity and one must be there and experience it to understand the ‘awe’ we felt. The air was also very refreshing. According to a signboard, it was due to the release of ‘phytoncide’ from the surrounding trees.
The trees there were mostly hundreds of years old and some had interesting structures at their root areas, forming structures like caves. We could not resist taking photographs with them.
We then arrived at the Sisters Pond after a short walk and Dar chose the boardwalk to circle around the pond. We began to spot some visitors like us and were somehow glad we were not the only ones there, since things were getting a little too quiet for comfort.
4. Shoujen Temple 受鎮宮 ( Snack Break )
We arrived at a busier part of the park after a 15-minute walk, which consists of the Shoujen Temple and Shianglin Elementary School. There were stalls lined up near the temple and the smell from the wild boar sausages quickly attracted my attention. We ended up buying some of these delicious sausages and several packages of barbecued wild boar slices to bring back home.
Following the directions given by the friendly stall owners, we came to a sign pointing towards Shen Mu Station and followed it. We soon reached a short suspension bridge which we crossed it and the road across the bridge led us to a small altar. Cat took a rest there while Dar and I continued on towards the Three Generation Trees.
There was a small crowd of people sitting and merrying in front of the Three Generation Trees when we arrived. Thus, we did not stay long after taking some shots at the trees, which like its name implies, consist of a generation of three trees growing on top of each other.
5. Huge Trees Pathway 巨木群棧道
Dar and I then met up with Cat and we returned to the suspension bridge, which was then crowded with people wanting to cross it. A sign on both sides of the bridge stated that a maximum of 6 person are allowed on the bridge at one time but apparently most of the visitors chose to ignore the warning and stood on the bridge trying to take photos.
After crossing the bridge ourselves when the crowd was cleared, we ventured into the Huge Trees Pathway 巨木群棧道, Trail No.2, in search of the famous No. 28 Huge Tree. As we were walking, a white dog appeared behind us all of a sudden and gave us a scare each, one at a time since we were walking in one line then. The three of us then had a good laugh over our reactions. ^^
As we passed by each huge tree, we would check its corresponding ‘number tag’ but we were still unable to find that elusive No. 28 tree. Cat then started to wonder if the white dog earlier was actually trying to lead us to the right spot. We did find another huge tree in the end with a different number, whose thickness of the trunk was so great and the tree so tall, that a full picture could not be taken.
Anyway, as the next train was bound to arrive soon (trains only arrive every 30 minutes), we gave up our search and headed quickly to Shen Mu Station (神木站). We were surprised to see a large crowd already waiting at the station and by the time we managed to get into one of the carriages after the train had arrived, all the seats were already filled up.
Unlike the local Taiwanese who were always spontaneous in giving up their seats for children and the elderly, the carriage was then filled with tourists and nobody was willing to give up his/her seat for Dar. Concerned over his safety since the train was also crowded with standing passengers, I started asking if anyone was willing to give up the seat for our 4-year old boy. It was only after quite a while later that a man finally stood up and gave up his seat. I thanked him and was glad that Dar could be seated safely during the ride as we made our way back.
We were greeted by a cloud of mist when we stepped out of the station. It was only 3.17pm then but the skies were already turning dark.
[ RECAPS ]
Time We Spent There: Around 3.25 hours ( did not manage to explore enough of the Shenmu forested area Trail 1)
Time it takes to reach Fenchihu by car: 1 hour and 15mins.
Overall experience (Cat): A very interesting natural experience if one had never walked in a huge forest before (like us). We had been to a few nature reserves but those trees did not tower over us like the ones in Alishan which were decades/thousand years old. We did not dare to even talk loudly because it seemed to disturb the peace and tranquility the ‘sacred trees’ provided. Go in the early morning because after 1pm, bus loads of tourists would be there. They disturbed the peace with loud noises. We were lucky to have gone earlier and in a different direction from them.
>> Read Next Post : Fenchihu & Night
Taiwan 30Oct to 6Nov 2012: Day 1 Morning to Afternoon Itinerary
- Singapore Changi Airport Terminal 2
- Taiwan Taoyuan International Airport Terminal 2 桃園國際機場
- Taoyuan HSR Station 桃園高鐵站
- Chiayi HSR Station 嘉義高鐵站
- Lovers Bridge 天長地久橋
- Alishan Tea Garden Home-stay 茶香花園民宿
- Alishan National Forest Recreation Area 阿里山森林遊樂區
Read More on Taiwan Itinerary 2012: 8-day Taiwan Itinerary (Chiayi, Taipei, Hualien, Nantou)
Read Summary Itinerary Post for Taiwan Nov 2018 Yilan | Taipei : 5-Day Taiwan Trip Itinerary: Nature and Fun
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